Paithani - DOT-Maharashtra Tourism
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Paithani
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Paithani derived its name from the city of Paithan in the Aurangabad district. Now its manufacturing centre is shifted to Yeola, in Nasik district.
Unique Features
Paithan was the capital city of the famed Satavahana dynasty
that ruled peninsular India for more than four and a half
centuries after the collapse of the Mauryan empire. The name
Paithani is derived from Paithan and is famous for its Zari
work of unique motifs on a rich silk saree. The colour of a
Paithani is mostly deep and has a smooth glossy finish. One
end of the saree, known as Padar has Zari work and both the
borders or Kath have floral patterns. The distinctiveness of
these patterns is that they look the same from both sides. A
Paithani is typically associated with marriages in Maharashtrian
tradition.
The traditional Paithani is 9 yards long and 2.5 yards wide
with floral and animal & bird motifs on the Padar and Kath. It
weighs up to 3.3 kgs., and requires 250 grams of silver and
up to 17 grams of gold. The quality variations are known as
Baramasi, Chudamani, Ekveesmasi and the price is based on
these variations. There are royal records that mention
Chatteesmasi Paithani weaving with silk of 130 numbers
denoting a very high quality.
The Padar of a Paithani is known by meaningful names such
as Asawali, Bangdi, Mor, Akroti and Gravel. The handcrafted
patterns using high-quality silk are known by the name of
Meenakari. Colours like Green, Yellow, Red and Grey with a
tint of orange, Fig are typically used in the making of Paithani
and are made using vegetable dyes.
The making of a Paithani usually takes around twenty-one
days and claims to last for a hundred years. The making of
the Padar itself takes about a week. Quite a few artisans are
involved in the making of a Paithani. Goldsmiths process the
gold and silver turning them into lustrous fine threads. An
artisan known by the name Watave rolls the thread onto a
bobbin and hands it over to the weaver. The process of
making the silk threads weave-ready requires absolute
patience and perseverance as it requires going through a
number of steps to maintain its unique quality.
The manufacturing base of Paithani Has shifted to Balewadi in
Nashik district probably in the 17th century. A few highly
skilled weavers from Paithan were brought to Yeola by a
Maratha lieutenant. The popularity of the Paithani reached its
peak during the Peshwa rule. The traditional designs and class
were in vogue till the first decade of the 20th century but the
changes in the test of the people brought in changes in the
overall designs and patterns. Due to the tedious processes
involved in the manufacturing, the cost was also high of a
Paithani and with the introduction of mechanical inventions
cheaper versions have started flooding the market and resulted
in the downfall of this once famous cultural symbol.
The concerted efforts through various schemes of the
Maharashtra Government, post the formation of the state, to
support this ancient art have started bearing fruits.
Cultural Significance
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Directorate of Tourism, Maharashtra
15 Floor, Nariman Bhavan,
Nariman Point, Mumbai 400021
diot@maharashtratourism.gov.in
022-69107600
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