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Men's Costume in Maharashtra


1. Brahmin Men

1. BARABANDI- this is a traditional upper garment for brahmin men. It is a overlapping white cotton shirt which has 6 pairs of strings in front on one side ,for fastening. It is a loose garment fastened with the strings in front. Generally fine cotton like mul-mul, cambric is used to make this garment, and the colour is always white. Due to the British influence in British era a western style coat is worn over the Barabandi by many men.
Barabandi was a popular garment in earlier times. Nowadays it is only seen when worn for some historical plays or theatre arts.
A modern Brahmin man prefers to wear a Sadara or Zabba , which is a loose, long length shirt in cotton or silk and is worn on traditional occasions. Today his day to day attire is Shirt / T- Shirt , and Trouser of western type.

2. DHOTAR - Dhotar is a unstitched lower garment of Maharashtrian men. It is a cloth which is 50'' in width and 5 mts. long. this is wrapped around the waist in a characteristic style. The cloth is taken around the waist and tied with a knot. The pleats are made then, for a particular length and tucked in. The bottom side of the pleats is spread out and the central point of the pleated fabric is pulled backwards between the legs and tucked at the back waist. The way of tying the Dhotar gives immense freedom of movement and comfort. Dhotar is always white in colour made from cotton mul-mul fabric. It may have a small decorative woven border.
While performing religious rituals , Brahmin man has to wear a 'Sovale' . Sovale is similar to Dhotar but made in fine pure silk. It is available in pink , yellow, purple, orange, maroon colours.

3. Pagdi - This is a traditional headgear for Brahmins. It is a decoratively stitched headgear in silken fabrics. It comes in red or dark red colours. A gold or silver brooch studded with precious stones can be tucked on the pagdi. In the historical city 'Pune ' a ' Puneri Pagdi ' used to be a characteristic head gear worn by all brahmin men.

4. Uparne - This is a type of scarf worn over the shoulder . It is either silk or cotton woven with traditional small border designs along the sides.

Maratha Men - Elite class

This is the community which follows the agriculture profession. This community played a prominent role in the political history of the state and country. The costumes are similar to the Brahmins with a little difference.

1. Sadara - This is a half sleeve or full sleeve Shirt which is knee length long.It has a short opening in the front with button fastners. It has a collar or sometimes stitched without a collar. Generally made in pastel shades or pure white, in soft cotton or silk materials. 'Khadi' - a hand spun and hand woven cotton fabric is often used to make Sadara.

2. Dhotar - This is the lower garment same as described earlier. It has small coloured or figured borders running in length . ' Karvatkathi, Ruiphuli, Bajiraodhotarjodi, are the different distinct types of Dhotar.

3. Angarkha - It is a coatlike overgarment to be worn over the Kurta or Sadara . Royal families had the practise of wearing beautifully designed Angarkhas as a coat.

4. Pheta , Patka - These are the freshly folded Turbans or headgear worn by Marathas. These are folded over the head with the help of a piece of cloth measuring about a foot in width and 15-20 feet in length. One end of this stands erect made like a feather on the head and the other end is sometimes left over the shoulder at the back.

Pagote or Pagadi , made of a twisted ropelike fabric is used by some Marathas and Mali community. The method of folding these headgears varies from community to community.

Gandhi topi, a cap made up of Khadi material is also widely used.

Koli men's clothing

1. Bandi- The upper garment for fisherman is a sleeveless jacket called 'Bandi' which is thick and

2. Topi- A small scarf is tied on the head as a headgear called 'Tambadi topi' or Rumal .

3. Lungi - The lower dress of the Koli men consists of a square piece of cloth with checked pattern in bright colours. It is draped in such a manner that the hind tucking covers the buttocks and in front a loose triangular flap hangs down from the waist, the diagonal sides of which cover the midthighs.

Other Nomadic Tribes

These include the Tribes like Dhangar, Pardhi, Warli, Gondia,Thakar, Bhill, Katkari and many more. The clothing pattern of the tribal men living in rural and remote areas include 'Dhotar' as the lower garment, and Sadara or Bandi as an upper garment. Pheta , Patka, Mundase, Topi are the headgears used.